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Fireground Tricks of the Trade.....

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  • Halligan84
    replied
    Our hydrant bag is a canvas tool bag kept on the back step with ball valves for side outlets and adapters for various hydrant thread. It gets tossed at the hydrant with the line when laying in.

    Leave a comment:


  • ChicagoFF
    replied
    What the hell is a hydrant bag??? Our you going to tell me or knot?

    Leave a comment:


  • aneff3904
    replied
    [QUOTE=PFDTruck18]Our you kidding me? Where our your hydrant bags kept? LOL

    It should be "ARE you kidding me" not "our" and maybe "Were ARE your hydrant bags kept"

    Just a jab though relax lol

    Leave a comment:


  • aneff3904
    replied
    No jab to me there kept on top of the hose bed. Must be an inside joke.

    Leave a comment:


  • PFDTruck18
    replied
    Our you kidding me? Where our your hydrant bags kept? LOL

    Just a jab, relax.

    Leave a comment:


  • firefighter7160
    replied
    Tricks of the trade

    How about lessons learned. Should of pulled a 2 1/2 inch on this fire. When theres more flames then house left, it should tell you something..... But now I know......lol

    Leave a comment:


  • aneff3904
    replied
    Hydrant bags

    We keep are hydrant bags connected to the end of are LDH, well the problem is that the bags are heavy and sitting at the top of the truck. We tried keeping them on the tailboard but looks like the poo. So we leave them on top and have a short peice of hose strap tied to the handles, now we can pull the bag from the ground and throw the strap over are shoulder to carry to the hydrant and wrap around the hydrant.Works great.

    Great thread good ideas.

    Work smarter not harder!

    Leave a comment:


  • aneff3904
    replied
    Hose Loads

    Has anyone ever pulled a cross lay and it end up in a big pile of knots on the ground? or pulled off a couple of flakes and realized that the D/O has not gotten the rest. Are dept. has started to triple load the hose, basicly you loop your cross lay into three equal parts with the nozzle about tree feet longer than the loop and lace it like normal. Works great no knots no mess and all the hose comes off flaked. It is even rookie proof, we have used it over a dozen times with great sucess. try it somtime and let me know what you think.

    Leave a comment:


  • lutan1
    replied
    How about, "Put the wet stuff on the red stuff"....

    Leave a comment:


  • JackMeihoff
    replied
    Stick in the mud

    KEEPBACK200FEET: I learned in a Truckie class that sometimes, when your doing what you have to do, and no one is available, you can set up your ladder, and drive the spike of the halligan in the ground tight up against the butt of the ladder to hold it down.

    I'f I'm that strapped for manpower I definitely don't want my partner (the Halligan) stuck in the mud just for some good ladder footing. If the ground is soft enough to drive the halligan into, drive the butt of the ladder into it instead. If you have the type of ladder that has the large feet or "paws" on it, they should be still able to be dug in if flipped into the up position.

    If I am missing the point here and it still is necessary to foot the ladder, I would utilize one of those straight prybars, a picket, or a crowbar.

    The halligan is much too useful to be a "stick in the mud" on the fireground.

    PS- Let's bring back the Pick head Axe battles again...they were great! I've never had my 8lb pickhead axe be afraid of heights or not start for me, but I still sleep with my halligan!

    Leave a comment:


  • MFDco55ff
    replied
    When forced to bail out of an upper story window on a rope, instead of trying to hold a tool in the corner of the window as an anchor while you bail, if the wall next to the window is sheetrock, simply ram the head of your tool through the 'rock, tie your escape line to the tool, then drop the handle down into the hole. This holds the tool in place for you.

    Also, if the outer wall is relatively flimsy, just drive something all the way through it, and tie your bailout line around the windowframe and adjoining studs through the hole.

    Everyone should know the airpack body rappel as well: Hold your line in one hand, pass it between your bottle and frame, and hold the running end up against your chest. Bail. The friction your pack creates on the rope will slow your descent.

    Leave a comment:


  • CTJAKE
    replied
    Originally posted by CaptainGonzo
    Keep a roll of duct tape and a permanent marker in the compartment nearest to the pump panel. When you have mutiple lines off the rig with members of different companies taking the lines, rip off a piece of duct tape, put it on the panel just under the valve control or gauge and mark the company's ID on it. That way, when a company calls for more pressure or to have a line shut down, you won't shut down the wrong one by mistake.
    You can also use an eraseable marker, the kind you use on a white board, and write on the stainless steel next to each pump gauge. You can put the number of the engine that is using that line, what floor, etc... It wipes off with a dry towel, rag, etc..

    Leave a comment:


  • KEEPBACK200FEET
    replied
    I learned in a Truckie class that sometimes, when your doing what you have to do, and no one is available, you can set up your ladder, and drive the spike of the halligan in the ground tight up against the butt of the ladder to hold it down.

    Leave a comment:


  • CaptainGonzo
    replied
    Keep a roll of duct tape and a permanent marker in the compartment nearest to the pump panel. When you have mutiple lines off the rig with members of different companies taking the lines, rip off a piece of duct tape, put it on the panel just under the valve control or gauge and mark the company's ID on it. That way, when a company calls for more pressure or to have a line shut down, you won't shut down the wrong one by mistake.

    Leave a comment:


  • CTJAKE
    replied
    If you are using a hurst tool with a manifold (allows you to attach up to three pieces of equipment) and while in the process of connecting the hoses together you cannot get a hose to connect due to built up pressure in the line (happens when someone pressurizes the system before both the male and female are connected, the male side will not lock into the female; some call it a dead-head) a simple and safe way to solve this is to throw the hurst generator into dump, then the manifold, and then place the manifold back into pressure (leave the generator in dump). DUMP, DUMP, PRESSURE. This will releave the pressure throughout the system allowing you to place the hoses together. After, place the generator back into pressue and continue.
    Another way is to throw the system into dump and press the male end into the ground (on a clean rag to avoid contamination <dirt and sand>). This will take some weight and will not be as easy as the above mentioned.

    Leave a comment:

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