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sawzall on door pin?

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  • #16
    Thanks Ron for Looking into that post, I cannot wait to hear your reply, When I read it BELLS and WHILSTLES started going off! How many years has it been that we have Heard the URBAN RUMOR of gas lines in the roof, Damn it must be almost 20 years now that has been circulating and it still shows up in classes.

    Oh another note I see you have embraced my idea of Strip before you rip, I have posted that for some time now and feel with the complication of new air bag placement this is a must do
    Rescue is the Art & Science of matching your tools, talents and tricks to needs of our customers!
    Carl D. Avery

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    • #17
      I think that a spreader remains the best way to open a door. They seem to be highly effective at removing the pin. If you decide to use a sawzall and can't get adequate access to the pin, you just wasted all that time when the door could have been opened much sooner by the spreaders. As for the hydraulic cutters. If you look at the "owners manual" I think you will find that they are not intended for use on hardened steel. Cutting through nader pins will probably wreck them in a big hurry

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      • #18
        Honda,Lexus and Audi are the ones that were mentioned for these issues. BTW I answered RON and havent heard anything back yet.

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        • #19
          Here in Mexico City we were severely critized by other squads when we first used cip saws in nader pins, roofs, doors, etc.
          However we were able to demonstrate it was not only much faster but cheaper (and believe me, budget counts here).
          Today other rescues are starting to consider saws as primary extrication tools as we do.
          I think the hurst dealer just wanted to deny the fact that saws are winning the rescue market race against jaws type tools. Doing the same for less.
          Take care.
          Fernando
          BRIASA 32010 Special rescue unit

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          • #20
            We only recently began "experimenting" with using a cip-saw on our rescue engine. We trained with it recently and found it worked ok, but still feel far more comfortable with our Hurst tool. For use on general vehicle areas, the plastic interior panels on most vehicles seem to present an interesting challenge. General panel movement seemed to cause some blade-binding issues for us. We were also concerned with significant amounts of flying plastic pieces. We discussed using the saw on Nader pins and, like several others, seemed to feel that access to the pin would be difficult. Shortening the blade has been discussed, but not tried. We are using the saw as a backup to our Hurst tool and have it staged accordingly on our apparatus.

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            • #21
              I assume your scenario refers to forcing a door. My experience using spreaders I always have a air chisel as a backup. If the door starts to tear or break at a weld seam while still attached to the pin we placed the blade (flat) on the pin and the vibration alone usually dislodges the door from the pin. If it does not we just quickly cut around the support and take it out. I have never tried a sawzal for cutting the pin. If the space is present I see no reason why it can't be considered for use I would think you would want a new blade and soapy water to go with it. I will try it on my next extrication practice. Thanks for the insight.

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              • #22
                For those who argue the matter of space for the saw, all you need to do is "bar the door", simply take the good old haligon and make a opening in the sheet metal. This takes roughly 30 seconds to do, even if you have the door skin and pillar overlap, still pretty easy.

                If a door is jammed after the pin is cut, a bar and couple of guys can usually hyper-extend the door in short order, or use a high lift jack, bar and come-along, porta-power etc.

                Most company's only play, practice w/ power tools, next time you get a few cars to play with try all the standard operations using only hand tools, you may be surprised with practice most of these methods can be just as fast. <img src="wink.gif" border="0"> <img src="wink.gif" border="0">
                Firefighter/CCEMT-P
                May we ride into the darkness only to return as safe as we started!!

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                • #23
                  For those who argue the matter of space for the saw, all you need to do is "bar the door", simply take the good old haligon and make a opening in the sheet metal. This takes roughly 30 seconds to do, even if you have the door skin and pillar overlap, still pretty easy.

                  If a door is jammed after the pin is cut, a bar and couple of guys can usually hyper-extend the door in short order, or use a high lift jack, bar and come-along, porta-power etc.

                  Most company's only play, practice w/ power tools, next time you get a few cars to play with try all the standard operations using only hand tools, you may be surprised with practice most of these methods can be just as fast. <img src="wink.gif" border="0"> <img src="wink.gif" border="0">
                  Firefighter/CCEMT-P
                  May we ride into the darkness only to return as safe as we started!!

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                  • #24
                    In refernce to fuel lines in the posts, Jaguar is using them now and they don't have markings on them. Also watch out for air bag fuel cells and seat belt pre-tentioners in the posts. Before cutting you need to strip the trim off the inside of the posts to make sure you don't cut through one of these.

                    I have used the sawzall on a nader pin once when the jaws went down and found it cut through quite quickly. The only thing is that you need someone to spray a soap/water solution to lube the blades and help disperse the heat and you need to use a axe and halligan to gain acsess to the naderpin. It may be faster to cut the metal that holds the pin to the door. Try it.
                    If your going to cry about doing the job you signed up for do us all a favor and quit, there are plenty of dedicated people standing in line for the best job in the world.

                    Lieutenant

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                    • #25
                      WE have the Hurst Maveric tool,and the O cutters, on our rescue along with 2 sawz-alls [blade breaks, change the saw]and the only thing I have found that the saw would not cut was the drivers seat mounting brackets on a charter bus [Penn State Bus accident] On tractor Trailer accidents the saws seem to work better than the hydrolic tools

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                      • #26
                        A spreading tool is a good tool , but a saw zall is also a good tool . To expose the nadar , a high lift jack to do a vertical crush on the door works very well. <br />A team that has practice this can do so in a timely manner.<br />Both are good ways to take a door. It depends which one you are trained on. I have found both to be the same amount of time. It just depends on the severity of the damage to the door & how you want to take it.
                        Jim

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