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Wow! It appears that stabilization is in season here. Here's something a little different. Before reading on, this may get a little technical and turn some stomachs, but its really quite simple and enjoyable (to me anyway).
Here's Ron's challenge from another topic:
Ron, I thank you for this wonderful scenario! Knowing the equipment you use, I'm sure you've performed this operation.
I would like to add a few more constraints to the problem: Ground is too rough for stand bases to slide. You have no lift bags or hydraulics available on scene. No tow truck available. A smooth lift with no jumping is desired so don't use a farm jack.
So that other buttress equipment on the market and our Res-Q-Jack Ratchet Stands have a chance at this, let's neglect the rough ground for a moment so the bases can slide.
Let's assume we are working with 6'(72")long stands. They may be fixed length timber, or adjustable telescopic tubing pinned at this length. The stand length (SL) and stand angle (SA) along with simple trigonometric functions give us the purchase point height (PH) and the base distance from the car (BD).
For SA=50 degrees, we get PH=55" and BD=46"
For SA=60 degrees, we get PH=62" and BD=36"
For SA=70 degrees, we get PH=68" and BD=25"
Now we want to lift the vehicle by 8 inches. Assuming we could pull our bases toward the vehicle to accomplish our lift our purchase with the vehicle remains intact, so our purchase height (PH) increases by 8". We now have new values for PH which is one leg of our right triangle, and we have a fixed length stand of 72" which is the hypotenuse of the triangle. We can now back out our new stand angle (SA) and our new base distance (BD).
For the stand originally at SA=50 degrees: The new PH=55+8=63". This gives a new SA=61 degrees, and a new BD=35".
For the stand originally at SA=60 degrees: The new PH=62+8=70". This gives a new SA=76 degrees, and a new BD=17".
For the stand originally at SA=70 degrees: The new PH=68+8=76". WAIT! our stand is only 72" long - TOO SHORT! We can't reach even standing straight up and down. We need to lengthen our stand, but this is not possible under load with a fixed length strut.
In addition, look how much base distance (BD) or "footprint" decreases as the bases slide in. Now throw in the rough ground that won't allow the bases to slide.
So how can we avoid such difficulty? Use the Res-Q-Jack equipment. The Res-Q-Jack Jack Stands do just what we want here. They adjust under load with 12" of travel and you keep your wide "footprint" because your bases stay put! For such a scenario, the best bet would be the Coral Gables Competition Kit put together by Chief Neal Dejesus for maximum utility. This package consists of (3) RJ3 Res-Q-Jack Jack Stands. You need a minimum of 3 stands for your basic side-resting car, regardless of product used. This gives a lift capacity of about 12,000 pounds with a static load capacity of about 21,000 pounds.
With the right tools in place the stand originally at SA=50 degrees is now at a PH of 63" with a new SA=54 degrees (only 4 degrees steeper), and the same BD=46" (unchanged!).
The stand originally at SA=60 degrees is now at a PH of 70" with a new SA=63 degrees (only 3 degrees steeper), and the same BD=36" (unchanged!).
The stand originally at SA=70 degrees is now at a PH of 76" (which was previously too high) with a new SA=72 degrees (only 2 degrees steeper), and the same BD=25" (unchanged!).
This is awesome! We keep our original base distance from the vehicle (maintain our footprint), get our 8" lift, barely alter our stand angle, and we did it in a smooth manner without "jumping" jacks. The only downside is that it would take at least 5 minutes to get the tools off the tarp and complete the operation w/ a 3-man team. The Coral Gables Team may be able to pull it off a little quicker?
My response to a comment in advance: Of course I would lift the car. I've trained with the equipment and know it. Should you lift with it? The answer to this is the same as the answer to: have you trained with it, do you know the equipment? Take note that I would follow up with wedges, inverted step blocks, or similar.
p.s. For all those wondering, our web design team estimates our new site listing a ton of new products (at least the ones ready for market) and stabilization info will be up by early next week, so keep an eye on RES-Q-JACK - your one stop for stabilization
[ 07-06-2001: Message edited by: cp-ny ]
[ 07-06-2001: Message edited by: cp-ny ]
Here's Ron's challenge from another topic:
A Posting From Ron Moore, Forum Moderator
If you are training on the challenges of a vehicle on its edge, add this to the drill.
Once stabilized, the scenario is that a person was ejected and is now trapped under the lower door. On the low side, at the point of door contact with the ground, raise the vehicle 8 inches!
If you are training on the challenges of a vehicle on its edge, add this to the drill.
Once stabilized, the scenario is that a person was ejected and is now trapped under the lower door. On the low side, at the point of door contact with the ground, raise the vehicle 8 inches!
I would like to add a few more constraints to the problem: Ground is too rough for stand bases to slide. You have no lift bags or hydraulics available on scene. No tow truck available. A smooth lift with no jumping is desired so don't use a farm jack.
So that other buttress equipment on the market and our Res-Q-Jack Ratchet Stands have a chance at this, let's neglect the rough ground for a moment so the bases can slide.
Let's assume we are working with 6'(72")long stands. They may be fixed length timber, or adjustable telescopic tubing pinned at this length. The stand length (SL) and stand angle (SA) along with simple trigonometric functions give us the purchase point height (PH) and the base distance from the car (BD).
For SA=50 degrees, we get PH=55" and BD=46"
For SA=60 degrees, we get PH=62" and BD=36"
For SA=70 degrees, we get PH=68" and BD=25"
Now we want to lift the vehicle by 8 inches. Assuming we could pull our bases toward the vehicle to accomplish our lift our purchase with the vehicle remains intact, so our purchase height (PH) increases by 8". We now have new values for PH which is one leg of our right triangle, and we have a fixed length stand of 72" which is the hypotenuse of the triangle. We can now back out our new stand angle (SA) and our new base distance (BD).
For the stand originally at SA=50 degrees: The new PH=55+8=63". This gives a new SA=61 degrees, and a new BD=35".
For the stand originally at SA=60 degrees: The new PH=62+8=70". This gives a new SA=76 degrees, and a new BD=17".
For the stand originally at SA=70 degrees: The new PH=68+8=76". WAIT! our stand is only 72" long - TOO SHORT! We can't reach even standing straight up and down. We need to lengthen our stand, but this is not possible under load with a fixed length strut.
In addition, look how much base distance (BD) or "footprint" decreases as the bases slide in. Now throw in the rough ground that won't allow the bases to slide.
So how can we avoid such difficulty? Use the Res-Q-Jack equipment. The Res-Q-Jack Jack Stands do just what we want here. They adjust under load with 12" of travel and you keep your wide "footprint" because your bases stay put! For such a scenario, the best bet would be the Coral Gables Competition Kit put together by Chief Neal Dejesus for maximum utility. This package consists of (3) RJ3 Res-Q-Jack Jack Stands. You need a minimum of 3 stands for your basic side-resting car, regardless of product used. This gives a lift capacity of about 12,000 pounds with a static load capacity of about 21,000 pounds.
With the right tools in place the stand originally at SA=50 degrees is now at a PH of 63" with a new SA=54 degrees (only 4 degrees steeper), and the same BD=46" (unchanged!).
The stand originally at SA=60 degrees is now at a PH of 70" with a new SA=63 degrees (only 3 degrees steeper), and the same BD=36" (unchanged!).
The stand originally at SA=70 degrees is now at a PH of 76" (which was previously too high) with a new SA=72 degrees (only 2 degrees steeper), and the same BD=25" (unchanged!).
This is awesome! We keep our original base distance from the vehicle (maintain our footprint), get our 8" lift, barely alter our stand angle, and we did it in a smooth manner without "jumping" jacks. The only downside is that it would take at least 5 minutes to get the tools off the tarp and complete the operation w/ a 3-man team. The Coral Gables Team may be able to pull it off a little quicker?
My response to a comment in advance: Of course I would lift the car. I've trained with the equipment and know it. Should you lift with it? The answer to this is the same as the answer to: have you trained with it, do you know the equipment? Take note that I would follow up with wedges, inverted step blocks, or similar.
p.s. For all those wondering, our web design team estimates our new site listing a ton of new products (at least the ones ready for market) and stabilization info will be up by early next week, so keep an eye on RES-Q-JACK - your one stop for stabilization
[ 07-06-2001: Message edited by: cp-ny ]
[ 07-06-2001: Message edited by: cp-ny ]
-->> sitting just trying to figure out what the heck all that meant......
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