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  • #16
    While most of the posts are talking about makes and models, one of the most important factors is the blade selection. This can make or brake a performance test.

    Personally I like to use the Milwaukee Torch blades with a 14 tpi. I you use a larger blade while cutting sheet metal, the vibration and chatter will be noticable. They Torch blades are wider than any other demolition blade I have see so far in my travels. This helps disperse the heat away from the teeth and provides a stiffer blade as well. My Milwaukee rep suggests using a Lennox blade if you don't use theirs. He seems to think their blade will out perform the rest. I know the company does a lot of testing so I will have to go with his suggestions.

    Ordinary bimetal blades will cut a vehicle, but the gauge is lighter weight and will not hold up to the demolition type blades (any brand).

    For cutting laminated glass I like the Milwaukee Ax blade, they have a 5/8 tpi, and will devour the glazing material. If you don't have a quick release stick to using the Torch blade for cutting metal, it will do the same job.

    Another point is batteries, older cordless batteries have a memory problem, the new style batteries can be left in the charger (at least Big Red, I can't speak for the others).

    As far as tools go, Red, Yellow and Grey, get a rep in your area, have them come with there tools get two cars and the SAME BLADE, and put them on the stop watch. Let the reps do the cutting so no one can say the operator pulled the test. Let the winner stand up.

    This was done in Boston for the BFD, Big Red won hands down over the Yellow/Black tool. However, the BFD went with the yellow tool, why???

    Do your own test with equal tools, corded against corded, cordless against cordless. Then if you want see what the corded will do against the cordless.

    I really would like to see a run off at one of the competitions to finally put the issue of who's darn tool is better than mine so we can all get on with other more important issues. This goes for the hydraulics as well...

    Perhaps Ron Moore will get all the rescue tool companies together and do a once and for all performance test by factory representatives. How many would like to see this?

    Ron Shaw


    • #17
      We use 2 Milwalkee 12V and a Dewalt 18V on our department trucks and when I teach Hand Tool Extrication, I use my personal saw which is a 9.6 Porter Cable Tiger Saw. We use Lennox, Milwalkee, and DeWalt Blades.

      Ed Brando
      Carthage, Texas


      • #18
        Ron, and Others
        Just a note about the Cordless version of "the Red Tool" Yes I am talking Milwaukee, Our Firends at Power Hawk make an adapter for the Milwaukee to run off their Battery Pack(Much Longer duration than the small battery on the tool) You may not need this all the time but It couldn't hurt (depending on cost and your budget) The Milwaukee is an 18 volt saw, I believe, and the Power Hawk is 12 volt, Ahhh you might say this is not good?! But Power Hawk has worked with Milwaukee and this is an "approved" system, one benefit is Slower saw speed, YES I said SLOWER, Milwaukee reps have told me that when cutting Metal Slower is FASTER, The Blades Last Longer and cut better at Slower speeds. This brings up another Point about the Milwaukees, I believe their Super Saw-z-all has an adustable speed control on it, or in other words a 'speed Limiter' Why do I Like this?? Doesn't the saw come with a variable speed triger? (YES IT DOES.) Well, Enless you are very disciplined (And goodness knows all of us are) Most of us will fall pray to "Tim the Tool Man Syndrome" That is MASH the TRIGER [MORE POWER] and go for broke. That brings the Saw Speed up and tool efficency down.

        Rescue is the Art & Science of matching your tools, talents and tricks to needs of our customers!
        Carl D. Avery


        • #19
          We have two DeWalt 18 volt cordless saws, one milwaukee 18 volt cordless, and two porter-cable 9.6volt corded saws, I feel that I have done a fair amount of unbiased testing on cars behind the fire house, and have found out several things.

          First thing, if you are cutting a nader pin, you need a blade with 16/18 tpi, and need to run slower than you normally do.

          Second, if you need to cut a hinge, 16/18 tpi works great, but you dont have to run as slow as for the nader pin, also a good demolition blade will work on a hinge.

          Third, when cutting sheet metal, posts, doors, roofs, if you have a good demolition blade, 10/14 tpi, then crank it up and run that saw fast, the wide agressive teeth dont need to run slow

          Fourth, the slow running speed is to reduce heat buildup, and to let the blade clean its teeth out, if you are using a 16/18 or more tpi, then you should run slower, and use a lubricant, but when running an agressive tooth design, there is less heat builup due to the larger spacing between the teeth, wich aids in cooling, and lessens the amount of material that will be gummed up in the blade.

          To make a long story short, I.M.H.O. saws need to run slower when cutting metal, only on certain gauge metals, when using certain types of blades.


          • #20
            we carry a bosch 9.6 amp and a tiger saw 9.6 amp both with quick release and a dewalt cordless set up for windshields
            Originally posted by Carl Avery:
            Taking a cue from our Moderator (the Subject of this posting) I would Like to conduct a survery of What YOU are using for a cip saw (reciprocating saw)? If you care to give details on why you choose that particular model please do. My Department carries 2-11 amp Tiger (Porter Cable) Saws, We use Lenox blades ( mostly due to accessing them-easy to purchase) At the time of purchase the 11 amp Motors seemed to be the best way to go(You know TIM ALLEN TYPE OF STUFF, More POWER) I now consider Length of Stroke as or maybe more important. OK Now you guys and gals tell us what you USE?


            • #21
              Our Rescue Engine carries a Milwaukee "Sawz-All" and a batery powered Bosch system.


              • #22
                Our truck currently carries 2 Tiger 9.6's and 2 24V Dewalts. We haven't gotten to use the Dewalts on any incidents yet. We use Lenox 650R blades.

                JH - 2250C
                Whitehouse Rescue Squad, NJ


                • #23
                  I agree with Carl the super sawzall is a nice tool to have. The speed control is nice to have. 1-2 is for plastics & formica , 3-4 is for metals , 4-5 is for wood. How many of us can us a trigger to control the speed ( fire or extrication glove hand ) with a medic saying " I need the Pt NOW " . Where the speed control is right below the trigger on the lower part of the frame were you put your hand. It is very easy to move the speed control & after many uses , you wear the numbers off the knob .
                  We also use the Torch blades that Ron was talking about above . They work great on sheet metal & roof posts. They also work nice on the side of a school bus.
                  The draw bach is on nadar bolts or hard metals. Because of the thicknes it is slower to cut through .
                  We run with 2 sawzalls. 1- with the thicker blade & 1- with the regular thinner blade.
                  Like all tools & ideas , it is not the answer to all.
                  Be SAFE



                  • #24
                    The department I run at is in the process of purchasing 2 Dewalt 24 Amp, with keyless chuck. Before we purchase though, does any body offer a setup or package specifically designed for fire department usage. For instance with special carrying case, etc. My e-mail address is [email protected]


                    • #25
                      Thought you would like to know that there is a RECALL on some battery chargers and batteries from DeWALT used on their 18v reciprocating saws. You can get the info. from them at WWW.Dewalt.COM go to search and type in "RECALL"
                      We have had to exchange one charger and battery at their service center in Nashville Tn. at no expense to us.
                      We have cordless Dewalts on both of our rescue trucks, one is an 18v and the other a 24v saw,we also have a corded Milwaukee saw on each.We have had very good results on extrications by using the cordless,in cases where the Milwaukee could not reach some of the vehicles because of the distances involved.
                      We have used the saws on small cars to simi trucks and are over all pleased with the results.

                      EDWARD MOSS


                      • #26
                        We currently use a 2 cycle gas operated Ryobi reciprocating saw and seem extremely happy with it!


                        • #27
                          Well - even though it took me a lot longer than "a week or so" to post a reply here - I have got to say that I am 110% rock solid SOLD on the performance of the DeWalt 24V cordless recip saw.

                          We ran a 1 Car vs Tree w/ 3 Persons entraped last week and even though I was not operating the cordless saw (I had a corded Milwalkee which I will definetly NOT be talking bad about either) I did get a great view of the saw & operator in action.

                          With similar blade set-up's and pretty close to the same start time on our cuts - an inexperienced FF with the DeWalt saw went thru a C post just as fast as I (the experienced operator) did with the Milwalkee.

                          My bottom line from an informal real life "head to head" - spend the extra $$ and buy the DeWalt 24V cordless AND the corded adapter - youo now have the best of both worlds. Run cordless off the truck while the Gen Set comes up to speed and cords are pulled - then switch over.

                          My 2 cents.

                          Take Care - Stay Safe


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