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Gamewell station Gong! Need wiring help

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  • Gabe1577
    replied
    Thanks a lot!

    Leave a comment:


  • Tree_68
    replied
    If you're on FaceBook, there is a Gamewell group...

    Leave a comment:


  • Gabe1577
    replied
    hello, I am currently restoring a SAFA street box (Gamewell competitor), and I plan to hook it up to a bell/gong. I can't find any Gamewell gongs or bells though. I have seen videos of people converting Simplex or other fire bells to ring the box code, but I don't know how to wire that. Also, I know the boxes run on 12 volts DC 100 Milliamps, but does that change when you add a bell to the loop? Any info helps. Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • tree68
    replied
    http://www.veetronix.com/Web%20alert%20man.pdf

    Exactly what you need in a receiver, and probably cheaper than any of the other solutions.

    If you want to get really carried away, set up a motor with a wheel and switch (like the Gamewell's used) to bang out your station number...

    Leave a comment:


  • backacheacres
    replied
    There are some directions up for auction on E-bay under Gamewell fire alarm. If that does not help I have some instructions that I aquired to do the same thing you are doing except I am putting this system in my private ffrie museum at my place. I can try to copy what I have and send it to you.

    Leave a comment:


  • spareparts
    replied
    Another Option

    You might consider a Federal Signal Informer http://www.federalwarningsystems.com....php?prodid=25

    I used an external repeat cycle relay and diode to protect the contacts in the Informer.

    Leave a comment:


  • erie_gamewell
    replied
    where can I get a relay to use.?

    Leave a comment:


  • ChiefKN
    replied
    That is great! Way to go!

    Always good to preserve some of your history.

    Leave a comment:


  • N2DFire
    replied
    Originally posted by ffjkf55 View Post
    Well after much input from everyone here the bell is ringing again! On this particular model I have the "dry contact closure" are pins 3 and 5. Thanks for all your help.
    Awesome News - Knew you could make it happen if you stuck with it long enough. Glad you got it figured out.

    Leave a comment:


  • ffjkf55
    replied
    Gamewell bell is working!!!

    Well after much input from everyone here the bell is ringing again! On this particular model I have the "dry contact closure" are pins 3 and 5. Thanks for all your help.

    Leave a comment:


  • FireDawgEMT22
    replied
    what i would do to prevent the magic smoke escape is wire the relay in the amp to another hard mount relay control switches..then the full power of the end load is going through the big relay and the little relay is just being used to trip the big relay

    Leave a comment:


  • ffjkf55
    replied
    Gamewell wiring issues UPDATE

    Again thanks to all who keep reading my amateur BS problems and continue to offer their time. I do appreciate it. I have finally wire this beast according to everybodys drawings etc. The 2nd and 3rd pin is where I want to be to supply the power for the coil on my relay when the charger contacts activate. Everyone, including myself, have assumed that I have Motorola amp charger model NRN3041A, 3042A, or 3044A. These all have the 6 pin accessory port on back. All the posted lierature clearly shows pin 2-3 as the "dry contact"

    Here is the Million Dollar F-up on my part. The Motorola Amp charger I have is Model NLN4985. Yes I do have the accessory port on the back for a DIN connector only it has 5 pins not 6. With this new correct wiring as stated above, I believe that my models pin 2-3 are NOT the dry contacts because the unit will not trip my relay still. Also I get feedback out of the chargers main speaker when I hook DC power to pins 2-3. If we assume 2-3 are open till the tones activate it, there should be no reason to be getting any feedback from the base unit (open closure NO current flowing right!). This is why I think the "dry closure" might be different pins on my charger.

    So I'm now trying to find different combinations for this other that just 2-3. Anyone have any pin assignments for this particular unit that isolate where the contact closure is for the NLN4985. Again Thanks for all your time.

    P.S. I hope this S^@! isn't on my Lt's test comin' up

    Leave a comment:


  • N2DFire
    replied
    Originally posted by FireDawgEMT22 View Post
    um ok, like i said before, the charger/amplifier already has the relay and everything done so that the required pins are hooked up to a relay. You dont hav eto do anything but plug into the jack on the back of the amplifier. Much easier than trying to piece something together..and you can find em on ebay for like 30 buck
    O.K. - here's my thinking on this and I will admit I have never actually rigged one of these up - I'm working solely on theory and the information I have available.


    1 - the internal "relay" in the base most likely isn't a true relay but rather a series of "switches" built into and IC chip somewhere

    2 - the 10 watt @ 28 Volts works out to be about 1/3 of an Amp current capacity. Recalculated for 12 volts that equals about 0.8 Amps current capacity.

    3 -
    Originally posted by CaptOldTimer View Post
    The gong wiring stays HOT all the time. It operates only when the circuit is broken.
    That being the case - if the Gamewell gong draws less that 0.8 Amps in this configuration, then everything is groovy and he can wire directly through the base contacts as you suggest - otherwise the base is most likely going to experience a sudden release of the "Magic Smoke" and cease to function.


    That being said - as I went back through all these threads and re-read that the Gamewell gong is also 12VDC then the above diagram could be modified slightly to the following.



    For the added cost of the single extra relay - a little "over engineering" is cheap insurance in this case.

    Leave a comment:


  • FireDawgEMT22
    replied
    um ok, like i said before, the charger/amplifier already has the relay and everything done so that the required pins are hooked up to a relay. You dont hav eto do anything but plug into the jack on the back of the amplifier. Much easier than trying to piece something together..and you can find em on ebay for like 30 buck

    Leave a comment:


  • N2DFire
    replied
    O.K.

    First IF I read the info on that second thread correctly:
    FYI: The 6pin DIN connector is as follows.
    Remote Spkr: Pins 1 audio high & Pin 6 ground
    Relay Dry Contact Closure: Pins 2 & 3 (10 watts @ 28 volts)
    Relay Closure Timing:
    Pins 4 & 5 Open Relay closed for 10 secs. after alert.
    Pins 4 & 5 Shorted Relay closed until reset button is pressed.
    Then the # 2 & 3 pins are simply a set of contacts (similar to those inside the relay)

    AND
    IF I read what you said correctly
    Originally posted by ffjkf55 View Post
    I now have obtained a Minitor II Amplified charger base. I purchased a 5 pin DIN connector. According to various websites, all I needed to do was connect my relay to the 2nd and 3rd pin of the DIN connector. No luck.
    You are tying pins 2 & 3 from the charger base directly to the 85 & 86 poles (the coil) on the Relay and that's it.

    THEN I see your problem.

    Pins 2 & 3 are simply a set of "dry contacts" - i.e. they carry no current or power of their own - they are just like poles 87 & 30 on your relay.

    You need to provide an outside Low voltage DC power source through pins 2 & 3 to activate the relay coil.

    The reason you can't simply run the Gamewell power directly through those contactsis that it's too much for those - hence the need for the external relay.

    Hopefully this (very quick & crude) drawing will help make things a little clearer.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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