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Since that is the nozzle set-up from my FD let me answer your question. It is not flimsy in the least and after 10 years we have not damaged or broken one of those tips.
By the way, the 1 1/2 inches is the interior diameter of the water way on a 1 1/2 inch coupling. So if you look at our 1 1/4 inch slug tip the walls of the tip are roughly 1/4 inch thick.
I should have quoted your post anyway, as yours was the set up I was asking about...Leave a comment:
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Speaking for all of my knuckle dragging SAR guys... " Whats a Nozzle?"Leave a comment:
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Totally unrelated question:
What size threads are on that 1.25" slug tip? are they 1.5" or 2.5"? I could be wrong, but it seems to me that with 1.5" couplings, that tip would be kinda flimsy- with walls of >1/8"... On the other hand, 2.5" would require an adaptor to do a break and extend. I love the idea, it's simple AND versatile- just trying to get my head around the details.
Since that is the nozzle set-up from my FD let me answer your question. It is not flimsy in the least and after 10 years we have not damaged or broken one of those tips.
By the way, the 1 1/2 inches is the interior diameter of the water way on a 1 1/2 inch coupling. So if you look at our 1 1/4 inch slug tip the walls of the tip are roughly 1/4 inch thick.Leave a comment:
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FyredUp: I like the set-up you just described. Start the pump pressure at 100 psi, under pumping the tip (7/8" equivalent) at 160 gpm. Boost it to 150 psi engine pressure for the standard 75 psi nozzle at 200 gpm, If you need more, remove the tip and use the 1 1/4" slug supplied with a pump pressure of 190 to 200 psi, and deliver the 300 gpm. Even at 300 gpm the reaction force will only be 91 lbs. I like the thought process. NICE!
Totally unrelated question:
What size threads are on that 1.25" slug tip? are they 1.5" or 2.5"? I could be wrong, but it seems to me that with 1.5" couplings, that tip would be kinda flimsy- with walls of >1/8"... On the other hand, 2.5" would require an adaptor to do a break and extend. I love the idea, it's simple AND versatile- just trying to get my head around the details.Leave a comment:
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Like it!
FyredUp: I like the set-up you just described. Start the pump pressure at 100 psi, under pumping the tip (7/8" equivalent) at 160 gpm. Boost it to 150 psi engine pressure for the standard 75 psi nozzle at 200 gpm, If you need more, remove the tip and use the 1 1/4" slug supplied with a pump pressure of 190 to 200 psi, and deliver the 300 gpm. Even at 300 gpm the reaction force will only be 91 lbs. I like the thought process. NICE!Leave a comment:
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Teaching proper hose movement should ALWAYS involve training to clear the kinks.Leave a comment:
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At the Massachusetts Fire Academy... one of the gems that are drilled into the heads of the recruits is the mantra "everyone is responsible for removing kinks in the line".... everyone meaning from the green as snot probie to a grizzled old Chief.Leave a comment:
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Well I am interested; what else have you guys done to battle the kinking when going to low pressure/SB nozzles? This is a move my volunteer department is about to make so any tips are appreciated.Leave a comment:
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Fryed's comments on the Conquest hose also validates the same issues we had after using Conquest for many years. We've since changed to Ponn Supreme which is much better but still has that same propensity to kink just behind the nozzle coupling. We're finding that lots of practice and better technique allows us to use the "whipping motion" but clearly going from the relative stiffness of the 100 psi combo nozzles to the SB and Vindicator requires more than just some classroom theory.Leave a comment:
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Thanks. My response, as you may have surmised, was not directed nor intended for you Brother.And you CERTAINLY have a valid point on the Conquest hose. By the way. my Brother says Coors beer gets colder than Bud,hehe T.C.Leave a comment:
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