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N6A Houston "Natural" re-paint questions

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  • #16
    Nutshell, if it hasn't been repainted before,YUP. Use a 300-400 grit paper,the scratches paint over easier with a FINE cut paper. You just want to scuff it so the paint has something to bond to. Any top quality enamel will do S/w makes some good ones. Two tack coats,each being a little heavier than first then a good finish coat. Voila' T.C.

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    • #17
      On a related note...If one wanted to paint a plastic helmet, would the method be the same?
      -Justin J. "JJR512" Rebbert

      The comments and opinions I express are solely my own and do not necessarily represent those of any employer or volunteer organization with which I am associated. Nobody is responsible for anything I say other than I alone.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by truckedup133 View Post
        quick recap if one of ya dont mind please. im buying a natural n6a to paint black. and you are saying:
        1. Sand lightly, not on stitches. (What gauge Sandpaper?)
        2. Go straight to using the Sherwin-williams black paint, if preferred. (No Primer?)
        3. Apply two to three coats of paint.

        Top to bottom how far off am I? if im going to spend 600 bucks on a lid i really....really dont want my wife there to remind how badly i have destroyed it.
        After scuffing it use cheesecloth instead of a wet sponge. Two advantages to cheesecloth. 1. No moisture will get under the coating if you happen to sand too deep. 2. Sponges, no matter how new will leave particles behind and you will definitely see it in a black paint job.
        IAFF

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        • #19
          Originally posted by MassFireGuy View Post
          Due this! Lightly sand (not over the stitches). Buy Krylon industrial enamel spray paint in the color of your desire. Give it two coats with 24 hours between each.

          OR

          Use two coats of 1shot paint.

          Unless you can find black primer, two coats will be fine.
          You mention the One Shot paint. Have you used it?

          I just got some the Fire Store to paint my N6A. My N6A was painted with flat black spray paint and was not in bad shape. I roughed up all the paint with a scotchbrite pad and did one coat of the One Shot with a brush. The helmet looks amazing. No brush strokes at all. And the paint as far as i can tell seems perfect.

          But here is my question, the can of paint says use two coats, with sanding in between, but then again, it is not marketed as helmet paint, it's sign paint. Should i really do a second coat when the paint is even and looks fine? As i mentioned, i was not painting on a stripped helmet, their already was a coat of paint in good shape as a base.

          The second coat at this point seems like it unnessecary. Anybody have any thoughts?

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          • #20
            Well, seeing as i went ahead and did a second coat, maybe if someone else has the same question as me, they will have an answer.

            The second coat definatley made a difference. The hardest part was seeing where the second coat of paint was because the already dry first coat is just as glossy as the fresh second coat. Make sure you have really good lighting.

            But the One Shot paint sold by the Fire Store is worth every penny. I bought a decent quality 2" wide trim brush at Lowes to apply it. Each coat took about 20 minutes to do and i gave 24 hours between drying. The paint stays tacky for almost 12 hours so do NOT handle the helmet. The wamrer the room, the faster it will dry. Their are some fumes, but nothing so bad you need to do it outside. I did it in my kitchen.

            In the Fire Store description they say the paint does not leave brush strokes and they are right. I was amazed that how with each brush stroke, the lines dissapear a few seconds after being applied. It's a very thick paint that will cover any cracks or surface imperfections. The seond coat has been dry now for almost 36 hours and i have since reapplied the Tets and hardware. The helmet is so glossy it looks wet. I am sure it lose some of the gloss in time, but right now it looks great.

            So for anybody looking to paint a leather, you can be confident buying this paint and not having to worry about using a sprayer. Just don't be cheap with the brush and take your time.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by truckedup133 View Post
              quick recap if one of ya dont mind please. im buying a natural n6a to paint black. and you are saying:
              1. Sand lightly, not on stitches. (What gauge Sandpaper?)
              2. Go straight to using the Sherwin-williams black paint, if preferred. (No Primer?)
              3. Apply two to three coats of paint.

              Top to bottom how far off am I? if im going to spend 600 bucks on a lid i really....really dont want my wife there to remind how badly i have destroyed it.


              You are going to mess up a nice natural helmet by painting it black?


              If I bought a natural leather, I sure wouldn't be painting the thing!

              Why not buy it black to begin with?

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Jonnee View Post
                You are going to mess up a nice natural helmet by painting it black?


                If I bought a natural leather, I sure wouldn't be painting the thing!

                Why not buy it black to begin with?
                N6A's have been very tough to come by latley due to some manufacturing issues. Black being the most popular color is VERY difficult to find right now. The largest online shops are wiped out and new ones are not even really coming up on Ebay.

                While i agree a natural leather does look nice, few departments will allow them to be worn unless they match the other helmets. So buying an N6A in whatever color you can find and painting it yourself is an option.

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                • #23
                  I used high heat engine enamel for my Sammy.. I think this One Shot would of been a better option since I wouldn't of had to deal with the noxious fumes and a run or two that I had to correct.. Don't get me wrong, it came out sweet

                  Thanks for the product critique!

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                  • #24
                    I was contemplating using spray paint, but in addition the fumes, the other issue is the overspray. You have to use Spraypaint somewhere with ventilation and where you can spread out a drop cloth. That eliminates most basements and definatley the kitchen where i did mine. If it was spring or summer, i could use the garage. But it's currently 12 degrees out!. Aisde from being miserable to work in that cold, the helmet would never dry in that temp. You also have to mask the interior on older leathers that are not removeable. If your good with spray paint and know the correct distance and speed to work the can, they can give you a beautiful, even finish. But if you are not great at either part of the technique, they can make a mess with runs, drips, thin and thick spots.

                    The One Shot needs no masking. You can easily freehand around the brass liner ring with no issue. And just a sheet of newspaper in case you drip is all the work area prep you need. And again, the fumes are minor. Nothing like spraypaint. Because the paint is not being atomized. Just the smell from the open can and the helmet while it drys.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by WD6956 View Post
                      I was contemplating using spray paint, but in addition the fumes, the other issue is the overspray. You have to use Spraypaint somewhere with ventilation and where you can spread out a drop cloth. That eliminates most basements and definatley the kitchen where i did mine. If it was spring or summer, i could use the garage. But it's currently 12 degrees out!.
                      12? right now as of 08:18 hours, Jan. 23rd, it's a balmy -6 at the Casa DaGonz... brrrrr!
                      ‎"The education of a firefighter and the continued education of a firefighter is what makes "real" firefighters. Continuous skill development is the core of progressive firefighting. We learn by doing and doing it again and again, both on the training ground and the fireground."
                      Lt. Ray McCormack, FDNY

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                      • #26
                        hey man i have painted helmets before and just to tell you you need to sand helmet and put 3 coates of primer and paint allow 24hrs of drying time between coates and put a wax on afterwards and trust me you dont need high temp paint if it gets 2000 degrees you shouldnt be in there hope i helped!

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                        • #27
                          3 coats of PRIMER? Maybe for a PRESENTATION helmet. You put that much primer on a WORKING helmet,it will crack all to schit. Watched a couple of our guys do it that way,DOESN'T work. Scuff 'em and a couple coats of GOOD enamel. T.C.

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                          • #28
                            I don't consider myself a professional helmet painter by any standards, but way back when Cairns was still respectable (read before they sold out) I called the plant to find out what to use. They told me Sherwin-Williams (can't remember the exact "type" or number.) Told me to sand it, NEVER use ANY chemical strippers INCLUDING the supposedly "safe" organic ones (they can still soften the leather...) and to blast one or two coats of gray primer, as many coats of the black as necessary to look good, and then if I wanted, a sealer.

                            Sanded it down with rough and then a finer wet sand, taped it up, hung it from a tree in the backyard, and three days later, looked like it came outta the factory.

                            I think I painted it once more about 7 or 8 years later.
                            "Loyalty Above all Else. Except Honor."

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