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N6A Houston "Natural" re-paint questions

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  • N6A Houston "Natural" re-paint questions

    Due to the shortage of N6A's from Cairns, I bought a natural finish helmet and now I am getting ready to paint it

    Should I strip the N6A "natural" before re-painting it w/ black high-temp engine enamel? ...

    Also.. Would a regular primer be OK to use in combo with the high-temp engine enamel?

    Thanks everyone..

  • #2
    Due this! Lightly sand (not over the stitches). Buy Krylon industrial enamel spray paint in the color of your desire. Give it two coats with 24 hours between each.

    OR

    Use two coats of 1shot paint.

    Unless you can find black primer, two coats will be fine.

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    • #3
      Thanks for answering!

      So, you are saying that I can skip the Citristrip and go right to sanding and then right on to the black enamel? No primer?

      I thought the "natural" finished Cairnes had a spray coating on them? Won't that factory coating be the weakest link in the final finish?

      Comment


      • #4
        Yes. I did one for a guy on my job a while back. It was a natural. I lightly sanded it. Wiped it clean with a wet sponge. Let dry. Applied two coats of Krylon Industrial Satin Black Spray Paint. Helmet looks good as new 5 years later. Well a chip from where he dropped it off a ladder.

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        • #5
          A paint job on a natural leather lid will last a hell of a lot longer than the standard paint job on a MSA Cairn's lid....
          ‎"The education of a firefighter and the continued education of a firefighter is what makes "real" firefighters. Continuous skill development is the core of progressive firefighting. We learn by doing and doing it again and again, both on the training ground and the fireground."
          Lt. Ray McCormack, FDNY

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          • #6
            Thanks for the help and comments guys..

            I am glad that I don't have to go through all of the stripping business with this brain-bucket..
            I just received my Conway shield today in the mail for this lid.. Is there any trick to drilling the shield for the helmet lugs so it looks nice and presentable?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by SkullKrusher2010 View Post
              Thanks for the help and comments guys..

              I am glad that I don't have to go through all of the stripping business with this brain-bucket..
              I just received my Conway shield today in the mail for this lid.. Is there any trick to drilling the shield for the helmet lugs so it looks nice and presentable?
              Just line it up from the back and drill man.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by SkullKrusher2010 View Post
                Thanks for the help and comments guys..

                I am glad that I don't have to go through all of the stripping business with this brain-bucket..
                I just received my Conway shield today in the mail for this lid.. Is there any trick to drilling the shield for the helmet lugs so it looks nice and presentable?
                Items two: Just scuff sand the lid. When I do 'em I DON'T wait 24 hrs between coats. I put on a tack coat,wait 15 minutes,put on a second coat,wait 15 minutes then a final finish/shine coat. Let dry 24 hrs and enjoy.

                On the FRONT, take some whiteout and put a dab on the head of the two mounting screws.Center the front holder and ease the front back until it touches the screws.Pull the front back off and you SHOULD have two lil' white dots where you leather punch your holes. T.C.

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                • #9
                  Thanks 101..

                  Would a drill be sufficient in leu of a punch? Or, should I just re-order another shield because I am going to screw-up the current one with a dodgy drill-job?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by SkullKrusher2010 View Post
                    Thanks 101..

                    Would a drill be sufficient in leu of a punch? Or, should I just re-order another shield because I am going to screw-up the current one with a dodgy drill-job?
                    I DON'T like using a drill and you WON'T like the results. IF you can't find a leather punch locally(short money) You can get a piece of 3/16ths steel brake tubing,cut off the end and bevel it until it's sharp like a cookie cutter. A hammer,couple taps and you're in business.But do yourself a favor and find a punch,you'll be MUCH happier. T.C.
                    Last edited by Rescue101; 12-13-2010, 11:13 PM.

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                    • #11
                      ... aaaand you just saved my poor wife the dramatics of a ****ed-off husband that is ranting about how he "screwed the pooch" with his drill-job on the shield that he paid good coin for..

                      Thanks again.. I think my father has a leather hand punch (they look like pliers) I will call him tomorrow

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                      • #12
                        I use the drill press at the firehouse.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by MassFireGuy View Post
                          I use the drill press at the firehouse.
                          Why doesn't THAT surprise me? I just put a new front on mine,used a leather punch(Harnessmakers) job came out MINT. Problem was I have TWO N6's AND...........Neither one has the SAME bolt spacing. hard to believe,huh? T.C.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Rescue101 View Post
                            Why doesn't THAT surprise me? I just put a new front on mine,used a leather punch(Harnessmakers) job came out MINT. Problem was I have TWO N6's AND...........Neither one has the SAME bolt spacing. hard to believe,huh? T.C.
                            If its free it's for me.... HAHA

                            The helmets I did all had different bolt spacing. I guess that what you get with hand made.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              quick recap if one of ya dont mind please. im buying a natural n6a to paint black. and you are saying:
                              1. Sand lightly, not on stitches. (What gauge Sandpaper?)
                              2. Go straight to using the Sherwin-williams black paint, if preferred. (No Primer?)
                              3. Apply two to three coats of paint.

                              Top to bottom how far off am I? if im going to spend 600 bucks on a lid i really....really dont want my wife there to remind how badly i have destroyed it.
                              "It's a living thing brian..."

                              Comment

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